1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4.0L I6 Renix AW4 NP231
Get the SJXJA VIP Chinese Snorkel from Ebay for 0 here:
I never thought I was going to need a snorkel but it seems I was mistaken. Sometimes after going through puddles my Jeep would stall even though I made it to the otherside. I thought it might have been an electrical issue so I found a deep puddle and very slowly drove in until I was up to the headlights. The jeep kept running so I was a little stumped. I found out later that I was sucking in just enough water into my air box for my air filter to get soaked and suffocate the engine. Then after it dried a little I could start back up. So it looks like I’m in need of a snorkel then.
The most common snorkel people look at for Jeeps is the ARB Safari Snorkels. They are built strong, follow body contours, and even come with air box adapters. The only downside is that they cost a decent amount of cash for a plastic tube. So I decided to go with a Chinese knock-off version of the ARB style. SJXJA makes a cherokee snorkel for a little over 0 shipped to your door from Ebay, so I figured, why not?
The price does reflect the quality of the product, but not so much that I feel I made a bad decision. The stud mounts that are drilled into the snorkel body weren’t square so they didn’t line up with the provided template but a quick re-trace solved that. I had to mount the air box adapter a little differently because it wouldn’t fit in my engine bay otherwise. It comes with all the necessary hardware and it looks good.
Install was pretty simple. After fixing my template, I aligned the it with the fender and marked where my main hole was going to go. You will need a 3 1/4″ to 3 1/2″ hole saw to drill into your fender. Make the pilot hole, then do your worst. Once the snorkel tube fits into the hole, make sure the snorkel sits on the body correctly and with allow the A-pillar bracket to fit. Drill your farther away stud hole first so you can get the correct pivot angle you want with the snorkel, then drill the studs closer to the main tube. Once the snorkel sits nicely, you can move on to the a-pillar bracket. I put down some tape then mounted the bracket to the snorkel and mocked it all up and traced around the bracket. Then take everything off and put the bracket up to your outline so you can mark the holes you need to drill. Drill them out, then put down some rtv around the holes to keep water out of the cab. You are now ready to bolt down your snorkel.
Figure out how you want to mount your air box adapter and make sure it fits in the engine bay. Then drill your 4″ interior hole so that the tube will be able to flex into it. Drill, mount, and attach everything else. Put your air ram on and you should be complete. Make sure the clamp is tight so the air ram doesn’t fly off on the highway.
I’ve driven through some deeper puddles upto the the top of my tires and the engine hasn’t stalled once. The air box also stays relatively dry in the rain as well. If you look at the air ram, you can see indents that going around the snorkel tube to allow water to drip out around the head to help stop water intrusion.