Water Damage Repair to Plaster Ceiling Part Two March 31, 2015 webadmin ⋅ Water Damage ⋅ How to repair water or sagging damaged drywall plaster ceiling Like 0 Thanks! You've already liked this « BuildingNY: Scott Mager, Chair/CEO, Perfect Building Maintenance » A.Hak Industrial Services | a.hakpark company (english version) 25 Comments plasterrepairtips March 22, 2012 @ 7:30 pm Thanks for your comment tlucky8. I use a plasterer’s steel trowel. You could use a blade trowel. All trowels come with various widths but a ten inch is generally used for stopping up and smaller widths for smaller areas. For smaller widths, blade trowels come in more sizes that flat trowels. Your local plaster supplier should have an array of both steel flat and steel bladed trowels. Cheers Bailiwick007 May 8, 2012 @ 5:55 pm Video was very well made, but I think there’s difference between plaster ceiling and drywall ceiling, isn’t it? plasterrepairtips May 8, 2012 @ 8:59 pm It all depends what country you’re from. Here in Australia we refer to drywall, plasterboard etc as plaster. When I say I’m a plasterer here in Oz, you automatically work with plasterboard. In U.K plaster is different to drywall. A plasterer in the U.K works with cement, sand and plaster of paris or similar and drywall/plasterboard is working using sheets. U.S is similar to U.K I think! I agree with you, plasterboard/drywall/sheetrock are different to traditional plaster definition. Bailiwick007 May 8, 2012 @ 10:15 pm Thanks! I thought this to be the answer, but I wasn’t sure. World became smaller thanks to plains, internet etc. but it is still big enough for cultural and language differences. & that’s a good thing in many ways I guess. coop5796 January 20, 2013 @ 9:05 pm Wow thanks for the great video. I am doing an upcoming dry wall project. Previously,had a water leak. I really appreciate you taking time to make this. Very helpful plasterrepairtips February 12, 2013 @ 4:01 am Fantastic! Thanks for your comment and well done for having a go. Cheers Michael Gallina May 6, 2013 @ 1:42 pm Very informative and done professionally. Thank You.. Paul Herman July 16, 2013 @ 1:18 pm Great videos, after watching them I feel I can do the repairs I need to do. thank you very much Nerio. 0003Zeb November 21, 2013 @ 8:07 am Grand video. Highly informative, with step-by-step instruction. It will take my sister and I longer than six hours, but after watching your videos we feel confident to give it a go! David Lowe November 26, 2013 @ 8:26 pm Thanks for the great videos. I tried to go to your website http://www.plasterrepairtips.com but it seems as its no longer active. Do you have a new website? cresten1000 January 12, 2014 @ 3:23 pm great job repairing that ceiling ..Its always nice to fine a video of someone that knows what he is doing I have to say I been working construction for sometime now and it took me some time to learn this.. (that right way) thanks for your video the repair looks great jeremy miranda February 2, 2014 @ 8:17 am Hi mate how are you? I have been in construction for 34 years, I am a tiler, but I do some plastering work from time to time, hence my question I see plasterers always using either paper tape or mesh tape, this is has always been the way, I how ever look at your videos and think, this is great no need to use paper tape, as long as I back/block the areas, but.. and, I am sorry to insist, but even plasterers using back blocking still use tape. so I am not sure what’s right or wrong!!!, how ever great videos and thanks for your teachings much appreciated take care annabelle lopez February 9, 2014 @ 2:05 am good job he making this look easy Mark Bower February 16, 2014 @ 12:12 am Very informative. Khila Abdel April 26, 2014 @ 4:42 pm I have to say great video. You seem like a nice bloke too 🙂 I am getting ready to tackle ceiling repair in my house. Here in the U.S it will probably cost me upwards of a $1000 to get someone to do it..money I can’t afford at this time. Thanks for the video! Glenn Coker May 5, 2014 @ 8:58 pm I tried your method but found that the drywall screws would not grab into the backboard well enough to allow the screw head to penetrate deep enough to putty over. Any idea’s? Darlene Benoit June 9, 2014 @ 6:48 pm We have a water-damaged ceiling that is near a ceiling fan as well. We fixed our roof leak, then my son took out the part that had been damaged, but in a weird shape! lol When he cut out the weird shape and put it up, it is backwards. IOW, the brown part is facing down into the room and the white part is facing into the attic, and it definitely is not as thick. Is there a difference in drywall thicknesses, and does it matter that the brown part is facing down into the room? Qiliang LIAO June 28, 2014 @ 12:58 am Thank you for the first part and this part. Really helpful guide for me to start my work. : ) Joe Tore July 28, 2014 @ 12:43 am Terrific video. Just the right amount of commentary to complement the visual demonstration. You obviously know what you’re doing and how to convey it to a novice like me. And, from this American, a real pleasure to listen to you in that wonderful (Aussie? Kiwi?) accent – I need to watch it again before I tackle my own project, so it will be a pleasure.And while we’re on the topic – “Sly Din” – how would I pronounce that in my American English? Would it be “Slide In?” Or would it be “Slow Down”? :) Atomik DonkycannoN August 15, 2014 @ 3:36 am Can you please do a video on working with villaboard Atomik DonkycannoN August 19, 2014 @ 6:00 am No water damage just doin a bathroom and laundry Reno thanks for the reply your vids are very helpful thecrystalship September 24, 2014 @ 1:05 pm Hey Nerio, great videos, they’re really helpful! Just wanted to ask a question. In this video I was wondering why you didn’t cut the ceiling beyond the joist so you could back block there as well? You stopped at one joist nearest to the camera. In another video you said if there’s some timber in the way, then you will cut beyond the timber in order to back block the other side too. Just wanting to know, I’m trying to learn as much as possible. Thanks for your help :) GSMSfromFV October 27, 2014 @ 5:25 am Nerio, Thought I’d just mention that I used a modified version of your no-tape drywall repair. Instead of using a plaster adhesive, I used a tube of all-purpose poly-seal caulk, wiped off the excess, and after about 1.5 hours, put on the first coat of all-purpose drywall compound. To speed up the drying process between coats, I used a hair dryer. Net result – solid as a rock and no taping bump and no cracks! Wes T paintninjagc January 2, 2015 @ 6:25 am I tried this back blocking again today, the problem i have with it, is i only do small jobs, so no more than 1 x 1/2 sheet generally speaking, and i dont think i give the back block enough time to dry. Today i left it ages, and went upstairs and fitted some shower doors while i waited, but on one of the back blocks i screwed a 70×35 behind it just to see. After about 45 minutes of drying, the backblock just pushed straight off the old gyprock when i tried to fix the new sheet, so i had to tape one end. Maybe if you do a whole house, or a heap of patches, but every time i do it i end up pushing the back block through. If i screw a 70×35 behind it that will stop that obviously. Wes T paintninjagc January 2, 2015 @ 6:26 am The other thing i wanted to know, is instead of gyprock, can the backblock be a piece of pine ? does it have to be gyprock.